Monday, September 22, 2014

Italy Part III: Small Town Life

Nothing's worse that a backlogged blog! Sorry - it's hard to find time to write when I'm not neglecting children, husband or school. But I've got to document the rest of this trip stat so we can stop backblogging and move on to current events!

SO. My most precious insights of this adventure came from observing authentic Italian life in the remote mountain village of Cagli. It's an ancient hilltop town located in the province of Pesaro Urbino, in the Le Marche region of central Italy. I stayed in a bed and breakfast there owned by a sweet Italian family, who spoke very little English, but have a great relationship with our program. 

 B&B Del Teatro - named for its close proximity to the theater. Our Front window is bottom left.

We would start class at 8:30 most mornings - first an hour of Photography, followed by Italian Language, Intercultural Communication, Profile Writing and then field work. The Cagli project involves finding a native Cagliese to interview (with the help of an interpreter) and then telling their story through both pictures and the written word. We print a book for each of the participants as well as maintain a website. On the last night of the project, the town gathers in the piazza and we put on a slideshow of the images we've taken around their village. Then we sing, dance and sponsor free gelato for everyone from Cafe D'Italia.

Here are some images I took in and around Cagli:













Just a short walk to the waterfall, where lots of young people come to hang and beat the heat. 


Creeper photo


My friend Amanda and I

This is the Rocca Torrione (Rock Tower) that was built as a fortress in 1481. There is a secret passage that runs between the tower and the monastery up the hill, used to pass supplies when the town was under siege.

Eating gelato for breakfast in our courtyard.  You always get two flavor options on a cone there, and my favorite combo was Nutella and pistachio. I have tried to find gelato in America a few times since coming home, and the rumors are true - they don't make it here the same way. Makes a glutton sad. 

Photography class

They were shooting a movie in Cagli while we were there - it was BIG news around town! See that news stand? It's fake. But that didn't stop some of my classmates from trying to buy postcards there, hahaha....

The film stars John Tuturro - he's the tiny one far left in the hat. I'd only ever seen him in O Brother Where Art Thou, but apparently he's done a lot. 



The theater...some of the girls and I attended a ballet here our first weekend, and it was such a neat experience! Every inch of this place was beautiful...



Here's Anna and Tony at their Pizza shop:

A Cagli wedding

Giovanni and good ole Father Bruno, who has a parish in Boise, Idaho of all places. They are sitting on the wall of city hall, which is traditionally reserved for old men who sit, talk, and nod off here.
A woman sitting on this wall seriously solicits stares...what gives, small town Italy?

City Hall at dusk

Trying to take artsy shots on the piazza...not my beer.



The man I wrote my story on, Samuele Buroni  - he's a local entrepreneur and politician who has so many big ideas for Cagli. 

These photos were taken on a tour of one of the many beautiful old family homes around town. Raphael's father was born here!


The dining room and parlor ceilings, respectively. And keep in mind, this is not a cathedral - it's someone's house. Just in case I didn't feel bad enough about our popcorn ceilings before. And it goes without saying, but I'm a crummy photographer, and these images don't come close to truly capturing the real thing.




View of Cagli from the 4th story window


Walk in pizza oven...

This place went FIVE stories down into the ground!


We took a day trip to Urbino, "the birthplace of the Renaissance."




Monument to Raphael who was born in Urbino. He died at only 37.

We were there on a very foggy day...


Dr. Caputo, Candice and Janet



We looked through a cool museum and played with our camera settings...

French fry pizzas are popular in Italy! But not my fave.

The ancient gateway to the city

A view of New Cagli

The old Roman bridge on the Via Flamina

Every Wednesday in Cagli is market day - all the vendors come and set up their shops, which is especially helpful to the older population. Here you can see our Bed and Breakfast on the right, the theater, and the Rocca Torrione in the distance.

Amanda and I out at "The Squaqua" for dinner with everyone.


One night, several of us decided to hike up to the monastery to get a good view of the town. Midway up, it started to POUR on us. When we reached the top, we met an older man, Fabio, who helps run the monastery. He ushered us in, gave us a tour, towels to dry off with, and let us take pictures out back. 

Fabio spoke almost no English, and we were all beginner Italians - so we mimed most of our conversation. Such a cool experience! Afterwards we went out for bruschetta in our damp clothes.

So I didn't get pictures, but one of the coolest experiences was being in Italy during the world cup. The whole town would crowd around the piazza to watch the games, and the energy when the Italians would score a goal was incredible.

Another sweet experience: playing bocce ball (sort of a mix between horse shoes and bowling) with the old men. Again, didn't take great pictures, but here's an image from our a classroom slideshow. :)




Another big highlight: Corpus Domini - or "The Body of Christ". It is a ritual performed one Sunday a year - people sprinkle flowers and herbs all around town and then follow in a processional behind a priest carrying the symbolic body of Christ. Everyone is so reverent and sings hymns together...it was so neat to walk along and touching to see people worship the Savior from the other side of the world.







Watching the processional go by. I wandered into this church that was open for the holiday. It's directly across from where I was staying, but I had honestly overlooked its simple stone exterior. I was blown away to walk in and find such a gorgeous old chapel!




Stunning. I received word the last Saturday of the trip that my grandfather had passed away. My grandmother (on the other side of the family) had passed unexpectedly the week before, and it was a lot to process, and difficult to be away. But I was so grateful for the comfort and peace the Holy Ghost brings.

That last Sunday, Patricia invited the few of us staying at her place and some other friends of the program to an authentic Italian family dinner. It was sweet...the closest I've gotten to that here is a meal at Olive Garden.




I loved getting to watch Patricia cook and help her set things up. Everything was so delicious, and everyone was so loving and open armed. Italy....when you're here, you're family. ;)